FISHING ROD & REEL CARE
FISHING RODS
Fishing rods break. It’s a fact. Some breaks are due to manufacturing faults in the fishing rod, which are rare, however, the majority of issues can easily be avoided.
Yes, at Rigged and Ready, we have the best guarantee in the world, that covers an angler from any error, however it is much better to know how to avoid the damage. This saves the hassle of a wasted fishing trip or having to wait for a replacement part.
MANUFACTURING FAULTS Manufacturing faults are rare, but if there is a fault that affects the strength of the rod blank, it will reveal itself the first few casts, as the rod blank will be compromised.
ROD BREAKS Rod breaks after that are normally 99% down to angler error in some way, or accidents. Regardless how your rod breaks, we cover you (Other brands do not). It is still best to avoid unnecessary rod breaks and a wasted fishing trip, plus the inconvenience to you.
IMPACT DAMAGE Impact damage is the cause of many seemingly unexplainable breakages. An invisible fracture can occur if a rod receives a short sharp impact during use, storage, or transportation. The impact point may then cause a breakage the next time the rod is used. Care should always be taken to make sure rods are handled, transported, and stored to prevent these problems. Not only the rod… the ceramic rod ring liners break easily on impact, either being lost of worse shattered offering sharp edges that can cut your line.
DIRT & SAND. Rod joints and any screw element need to be cleaned often. If not, joints will jam, and screw threats will jam. Many Rigged and Ready rods have screw together aluminium butt sections. If these are not cleaned the threads a can become jammed and the rod butt will not unscrew, putting pressure on the glued sections. Always clean your rod when you think dirt could be in the joints or spigots.
SALT. Worse than DIRT AND SAND. Salt can ruin rods. The salt drying in joints locks them solid, and salt drying in rod eyes, can dislodge the ceramic rod ring liner. 100% after using a rod and rod joints and screws in saltwater wash the rod in clean tap water. Any screw together butt sections and reel sections should be oiled with WD40 or similar. (Even if a rod is salt protected you need to do this)
CORRECT JOINT ASSEMBLY & CHECKING Having lose joints, or dirty joints (see above) is a major cause of rod breaks. Rigged and Read rods have 2 joint types.
1. Push in Joints, where the thinner rod section, pushed inside the larger section. On these the 2 rod sections should be firmly pushed together, whilst twisting. They should be checked every 10 to 15 costs to ensure it stays snug and tight.
2. Spigot Joints. Use a spigot between the 2 rod sections. This is a friction joint, where there will always be a 1 to 2cm gap between the rod sections. The rod sections should be firmly pushed together, whilst twisting. 
- DEAD LIFT. Rods are not designed to dead lift big fish (or traffic cones). You should always have a net or handle the fish from the water.
- HEAVY SNAGS. Rods are not designed to pull out of a heavy snag. Point the rod directly at the snag, put the pressure on the reel and walk backwards, looking away from the snag (to avoid, flying tackle).
- REEL DRAG. Should always be set to give out line before the line or the rod breaks. When using the super light Fish Rig 180, this needs to be incredibly light!
- CORRECT CAST WEIGHTS. Going above the designed cast weight puts additional pressure on the rod blank it was not designed to handle.
1. Holding the rod up the shaft of the blank playing a fish or getting out of a snag.
2. Pulling a lure or hook towards the handle putting the tip under pressure
3. Holding a rod by the tip section
4. Reeling in too far, or too fast, with braided line, with lures, or tackle hitting the end eye.
5. Testing the rod bend by holding both sides of the blank.
SALT PROTECTED REELS
All reels should be cleaned and lubricated often, on all moving parts. However, when fishing in salt water, further care must be taken, even if the reel is salt treated.
Saltwater protection means that the reels have rubber seals to prevent salt splashes from entering the reels, plus the external parts of the reel will not corrode. However, with even with a saltwater protected reel you need to wash it down with warm fresh water afterwards. Especially if it has been dunked in saltwater, which from what I suspect has happened. (It is the same with any rod)
Saltwater fishing gear can be expensive, but with proper maintenance, it can last for years and provide great fishing experiences. Here are some tips on how to properly maintain saltwater fishing gear:
Cleaning Reels: After a day of fishing in saltwater, it is important to clean your reel to remove any salt build up that can cause corrosion. To clean your reel, remove the spool, and use a soft bristled brush to remove any salt or dirt from the gears, spool, and body of the reel. Use a mild soap and warm water to clean the reel and be sure to dry it thoroughly with a soft cloth before storing it.
Lubricating Reels: Lubrication is an essential part of reel maintenance, as it keeps the gears running smoothly and protects against corrosion. Use a high-quality reel oil to lubricate the gears and bearings.
Salt Protection Offers External Resistance To Saltwater Corrosion, Through Additional Rubber Seals Placed Inside The Reel.
Seals Do Not Prevent All Saltwater Ingress, Just Limit It.
Reels That Have Been Dunked In Saltwater Will Still Corrode Internally Quickly, Unless They Are Washed In Clean Warm Water After Each Use And Ideally Re-Lubricated.
Wash All Rods And Reels In Fresh Water After Any Contact With Saltwater.
